tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post7136174371394438375..comments2023-07-18T09:01:00.112-07:00Comments on Over Engineered: Quiz Show BuzzersKenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17915495602215138269noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-72219890150704919832017-07-10T07:44:18.471-07:002017-07-10T07:44:18.471-07:00Hi Brian,
The power supply is just a wall wart DC...Hi Brian,<br /><br />The power supply is just a wall wart DC power supply. I think I had an old one lying around in my spare parts bin that was around 8 VDC. No batteries and I don't think I even used a voltage regulator of any kind.<br /><br />-KenKenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17915495602215138269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-4677715409065334572017-07-09T10:34:35.679-07:002017-07-09T10:34:35.679-07:00Ken,
Another question how is the power supply tied...Ken,<br />Another question how is the power supply tied into the arduino? From the video it looks like you are not using the power port on the arduino itself but tied into a battery of some sort under the arduino.<br /><br />Thanks again.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03220747685838354265noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-79788633147691990612017-06-08T12:41:38.638-07:002017-06-08T12:41:38.638-07:00Hi Brian,
I checked into which LEDs I used and it...Hi Brian,<br /><br />I checked into which LEDs I used and it looks like I got ultra-bright LEDs from Jameco. I checked and it looks like the part numbers I got are no longer available. The LEDs aren't super-critical, I just got some bright ones that would shine through the ping pong balls sufficiently. A good thing to look for is the type of LEDs that are water clear when they're turned off (as opposed to the older style LEDs that are red, green, or yellow when they're off).<br /><br />-KenKenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17915495602215138269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-79297748036310150822017-06-07T17:54:35.848-07:002017-06-07T17:54:35.848-07:00Hello,
I was trying to recreate your project but ...Hello, <br />I was trying to recreate your project but do not know what diodes are used in the project.<br />Could you tell me what diodes are used, or where to purchase them?<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />BrianAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03220747685838354265noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-62920982728896178802016-10-26T09:01:45.098-07:002016-10-26T09:01:45.098-07:00Hi Vincent,
The pullups are enabled at line 188 i...Hi Vincent,<br /><br />The pullups are enabled at line 188 in the firmware. If you set the pinMode to INPUT and then do a digitalWrite to HIGH that enables the pull up resistors. It's definitely not obvious though and deserves a comment in the code.<br /><br />In more recent versions of the Arduino IDE they've changed it so the way to enable pullups is to set the pinMode to INPUT_PULLUP, which makes it much more obvious what the code is doing.<br /><br />-KenKenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17915495602215138269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-30201580864924616522016-10-25T14:36:35.748-07:002016-10-25T14:36:35.748-07:00Hi Ken,
I already was testing with your schematic...Hi Ken,<br /><br />I already was testing with your schematic from Github and did not understand it (the 4 push-button sections).<br /><br />The missing information was the internal pull up resistor. There is nothing in the ino code that explicitely sets the pull up resistor. I guess it's the default behavior.<br /><br />I just configure the pull up resistor of the button pin (I use a raspberry pi, but it also possible to set the pull up resistor) and it works!.<br /><br />Thanks for your help ;-)<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08197178398015339701noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-59571168860372988462016-10-25T13:14:27.285-07:002016-10-25T13:14:27.285-07:00Hi Vincent,
The schematic is available here.
The...Hi Vincent,<br /><br />The schematic is available <a href="https://github.com/sharpk/buzzers/blob/master/hardware/schematic.jpg" rel="nofollow">here</a>.<br /><br />The way that I only use 3 lines is that I don't have a line for powering the button. I have one line for the LEDs, one line for ground, and one line that connects to one side of the button. The other side of the button is connected to the same ground line that the LEDs connect to.<br /><br />The reason this works is because the digital input on the Arduino side has internal pull up resistors that connect to Vcc. So when the button is pressed I get zero volts on the digital input because the button connects the ground line to my input. When the button is not pressed the input line floats and the internal pull up resistor pulls it up to Vcc giving me a "1" on the digital input.<br /><br />I hope that helps.<br /><br />-KenKenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17915495602215138269noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14316832.post-71619521150961413142016-10-25T08:49:09.820-07:002016-10-25T08:49:09.820-07:00Hi,
Thanks for this article :)
I'm trying to ...Hi,<br /><br />Thanks for this article :)<br />I'm trying to achieve a similar buzzer system but without the additional LEDs. <br /><br />I don't understand how you can read the button state and turn on/off the LED separately with only 3 wires. <br />I can do this with 4 wires (1 for turning off/on the LED, 1 for ground of the LED, 1 for powering the button and 1 for reading the value of the button) but not 3.<br /><br />Thanks :)<br /><br />VincentAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08197178398015339701noreply@blogger.com